
Malaysia, Bali & Australia · Chapter 6
Water, hops, and Bali
Kuta is like Ibiza for Australians.
Thursday’s bacon was made of pig. I think. It was certainly a better approximation than the dreadful crap in KL. Breakfast largely consisted of nasi goreng and singapore chilli noodles though. Nom. I did toy with the idea of just staying in the hotel all day but, after watching the remake of Shaft, decided it would be a bit of a shame if I didn’t at least do some vague exploration of my surroundings. So I slapped on a cwt of factor 50, grabbed my rucksack and set off to walk into Kuta.

I’d read that the streets would be full of people trying to get your business, and that even eye contact was considered an “in”, so the best way to deal with it is just to not look at anyone, keep walking, maintain your pace. Being a long term user of London public transport, ignorance and rudeness is second nature so I easily escaped, with only one woman being particularly insistent that I go to her massage parlour for sexy massage with young girls. The bloke who said my beard made me look like Chuck Norris deserved a bit of love too. It all was a bit mad though - the streets are as crowded as a Tour de France hill stage, with everyone offering me transport/SIM cards/hats/massage/young girls. And in a role reversal, the cabs slow down and try to hail passengers. But I just kept walking, with no map or real clue as to where I wanted to go.
In the end it was about a 6km trot through street after street of awful bar, massage parlour, western fast food joint, surf/skate shop (with public mini ramp in the DC shop), magic mushroom seller, authorised money changer (with rates written up, and an 8% variance!) and stall after stall of tat. Like an Australian focused hybrid of Blackpool and New Orleans but without many redeeming features, I can’t really say that I liked it. The tat stalls with their comedy slogan t-shirts, I’ve seen them the world over, but who wants a shirt that says “I’m not gay, but $20 is $20” or a fridge magnet that reads “WASH MY CUM RAG”?

I failed dismally to find the beach, but I refused to stop even for a second lest I appear interested in something someone had to offer. Instead I just walked until I thought I couldn’t cope with the heat much more, and was almost out of water, and walked straight back. The shouts of “yes boss” kept coming, interspersed with the odd fauxstralian “g’day mate” with an Indonesian twang.
Kuta is like Ibiza for Australians. Everything is geared towards them - flags on the bars, “we show Aussie sport” signs, etc. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out the attraction - we Brits need to go to the med to get sunshine and nice beaches, but Australians already have all that. Why do they go here? The beer is cheap but the time and cost of getting there doesn’t make that a valid reason either. WTF? I saw some greenpeace posters saying “protect paradise”. Bit late…

Back at the hotel I wrote down notes for all the stuff I’d seen and heard and done. It felt like my own little version of the generation game final round. And then I showered, blogged, and went to have some beer by the pool. Bintang pilsner is “international quality”, apparently. No strength on the label. Had 3 bottles while I finished the Brixton Academy book, which wound me up quite a bit towards the end. And I got really angry at autocorrect on my phone, as it turned “drunk” into “drink” twice, only to then turn “drink” into “drunk”. FUCK OFF.

Battery died on my phone so I went back to my room to get a bit of juice, and watch some TV before getting some food. But instead I fell asleep until midnight, and then failed to get back to sleep. Go go jet lag Darren! So I watched a comedy Irish creature feature called Grabbers, starring the bloke from Coupling who looks like Martin Sheen, the plot of which is “a village full of Irish people get pissed to destroy a killer octopus thing”. Odd. The dialogue “5 nautical miles” was subtitled as “8 kilometers”, which I found strange. Then I watched a Louis CK gig, to remind me of Tom. And then I fell asleep.
Normally I don’t dream much, though travel sometimes brings it out in me. On one trip over here I had recurring dreams about North Korea. In Paris I’d dreamt that I could fly, in fact everyone could, and I had an airborne argument with Wooj and Arnold about whether Behemoth are a black metal band or a death metal band, and whether black metal is shit. In Bali, however, I dreamt that I was at a gig seeing Gwar supporting DOA, in a school hall. When the stage lights failed during the second song, a mass fight broke out amongst the 30 or so people in attendance, which included Jesse Pintado from Napalm Death and his girlfriend. It turned nasty and people were handing out bottles to use as weapons. After a while the carnage calmed down and I realised I’d lost my phone, so started hunting for it. There were loads of iPhones on the floor, but it took me a while to find mine - I was repeating “40% more bacon, 40% more bacon” to everyone. Then I thought I saw Calum, and woke up, a bit freaked out by this bizarre and vivid nature of it all.
Fell back akip pretty simply, only to wake up less than half hour later to a massive explosion sound, a siren going off outside, and a power cut. I’m not sure what happened, or even whether the explosion was real - I have exploding head syndrome, which is a real actual thing. Go look it up. There didn’t seem to be any real urgency on display by the guy cleaning the pool, so I assumed there wasn’t a bomb or anything, and very shortly the siren stopped, power returned, and my heart rate fell back to normal.
Monstrous breakfast buffet on Friday. Three plates full of rice and noodles and stuff. Back to the room, via a stop in the Vira Bali reading room while waiting for housekeeping to finish cleaning my room and replenishing the mini bar diet coke. Most of the books were not English, but my eye was caught by the Mills and Boon book from its “medical” genre - “the surgeon she never forgot”. That’s, like, really really wrong, isn’t it?

Spent the whole morning debating with myself whether I should leave the hotel that day, maybe do a tour. I was already way too late for a full day tour, but there were a lot of half day tours available which start any time between 2pm and 3pm, in particular ones which involve going to see spectacular sunsets. And, I had a shitload of currency I could have done with spending especially as it wasn’t enough to bother changing back to Aussie dollars or British shekels. There was a half day tour to a monkey forest, a temple, and then one more temple for sunset - so at 2pm I went down to reception and said, am I too late to get a driver to take me to see monkeys and the sunset? They said no, it would be fine, go get a beer while they sort it out.
He was gonna turn up at 1530, which seemed fair enough since I was only doing 2 out of 3 attractions. And I had no clue about where these things were, and trusted them. The bloke ended up arriving a bit late, but off we went. Chatted a bit about football, cos he was a Liverpool fan. But he didn’t seem very chatty and it got a bit quiet as we drove. And drove. And drove. And drove. Turns out it was a bloody long way.
I got to see a fair bit of Bali’s internals. The residential areas were littered by temples, which seemed to be at the start of little gated areas. There were massive amounts of craft shops, mostly stuff made of wood, which confused me - I’ve seen enough episodes of Nothing To Declare/Border Security to know you can’t take wood into Australia, and since every tourist here is Aussie…
Also, it’s election season, by which I mean every 20 yards there was a giant billboard with a picture of a man displaying fine millinery, asking for the vote. Like those ham faced David Cameron photos from 2010, only these guys hopefully aren’t total cunts.
Eventually got to the monkey forest at 5pm. Sunset is about 6.40pm and an hour or 90 minutes to drive. Eek. Thankfully I probably couldn’t have lasted the heat and mosquitoes much longer than 20 minutes anyway, and I was very happy with how much I saw - it’s not a big place, the monkey forest, just a pretty small complex of trees and temples with free roaming macaques all over the place, from big angry adults to tiny ickle baby ones who wouldn’t stay still for a photo. I didn’t feed them but if you do, they crawl over you. Very cool. Less angry or outright thieving than the ones on Gibraltar.

So, back in the car for a race against the sun to Tanah Lot, a temple complex on the coast with the main temple actually built on a rock you can only get to at low tide. The driver took a few short cuts off the main roads to try and get there quicker, so we went through some seriously non-tourist areas, full of animals all over and kids playing with fires. Had to slam the brakes on at one point so as not to kill a bird. Why did that chicken cross the road? What a joke.

We just, and only just, lost the race, largely due to being stuck for 10 minutes behind a tourist who couldn’t cope overly well with the driving on the ropey roads. We tried very hard to overtake him, on blind hills and corners with liberal use of the “I’m here and doing stuff” horn. The sun was obviously setting and the views across fields of extraordinarily vivid blues and greens and yellows were decent, but the brightness was just disappearing at Tanah Lot. I got one decent photo which I was very happy with, and it was a pretty cool place to explore but everything was shutting and I was swimming against a huge crowd of people leaving. At least I was late enough that the entry fee booth was closed…

Drove back to the hotel, another hour or so. I have no idea how you are meant to fit three attractions into one afternoon, even starting at 1400. Apparently this wasn’t even bad traffic, and it’s definitely low season. Still never mind - I did see what I wanted, just not for very long. Still hadn’t seen a beach though.
Back at the Vira, Friday night was in full swing. This meant a really, really poor cover band covering Australian music like Men At Work and AC/DC, presumably to fix the homesickness all the Aussie tourists must be suffering in this alien environment. And they covered it badly. Very, very badly. But the worst was their version of Nothing Else Matters, which for some reason they played twice. I was almost put off music for life. Jesus.
Had a nasi goreng and a couple of beers. Thought about wandering down the road to the Irish pub just to get a Guinness, but apparently it was some kind of comedy night, and besides I had a long Saturday ahead of me starting with an early flight in the morning - and as I already knew, leaving Bali airport is a truly terrible experience, even worse than arriving. I’d tried to check in for both of Saturday’s flights on my phone and had a bit of grief with each, so I figured, y’know, just go to bed. Arranged a cab for 0830, and fell asleep to the dulcet sounds of CNBC.
