
Round the world · Chapter 15
For those about to blog
I figured a pilgrimage was required.
Hi, does this boarding pass give me access to this lounge?
Have you just transferred from an international flight?
No, I haven’t.
Then I’m afraid not Sir.
OK, I thought so. So, I have a BA Executive Club card, now this one is blue but I’ve been travelling for the last two weeks and should by now have been updated to silver, is it possible for you to check that for me?
Sure thing. [tappity tappity tappity] Oh wow, whoa, my God. Sir, with that itinerary you can come straight in. Jeez, look at all these places!

Damn right! Sydney terminal 3 Qantas lounge ahoy. Biggest problem I have is that there don’t appear to be any plug sockets for me to leech power from so I don’t have time to write a lot at the moment, nor upload photos. 45 minutes battery left and that’s probably too liberal an estimate :-( A couple of things from my first few days in Sydney last week spring to mind though, that went unmentioned before: Sydney’s 4 main terrestrial TV channels are called 2, 7, 9 and 10. TVs automatically tune the channels to those channel numbers, leaving 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 empty. That’s ridiculous. And, at the zoo, one of the snakes we saw was solar powered. According to the info about it it lies in the sun doing nothing until its brain heats up enough to give it a kickstart, after which it’s equipped to control the rest of its bodily functions, ie moving, killing, and eating. Fantastic.

I’ve got a fantastic view from my hotel room. Sat in the Crowne Plaza in Perth right now, overlooking the Swan river, a big bit of greenery, and the hotel’s swimming pool. The weather is glorious and it’s twenty to five in the afternoon. Internet access in this room doesn’t seem to have a per-megabyte charge associated with it and therefore I’m going to kick off uploading all the photos I took in Auckland, even though an awful lot of them are average and/or very samey. Hopefully some people are big fans of lava and water and big towers.

Domestic flights suck. QF577 saw me spending 5 hours above some extraordinarily boring landscape with no personal video screens, a busted pair of headphones, shit seats, and sat next to a wine guzzling nun. Good on ’em for giving me glass bottles of beer though, especially after my “take advantage of the lounges” philosophy was confounded in Sydney because the alcohol isn’t self-service, and the bars weren’t opening until 1300. Bah. Managed to finish a book I only bought in Auckland airport on Monday already on the flight too.

First impressions of Perth are embarrassing, in that I feel pretty … sophisticated. Me! I’m obviously being unfair but the experiences so far have been: arrive at the domestic airport, where people were being met directly at the gate, there’s no security (or immigration, obviously) and baggage reclaim is landside in a public bit that anyone could wander off the streets and get to; and getting a cab to the hotel driven by a guy who thinks blacks are ruining every city in the world, it’s ridiculous that in London “every 10 people are 5 black faces and 5 white faces” walking down Oxford Street (insight courtesy of his London-dwelling daughter), and that they’re not content with killing each other and destroying their own countries.
I was very glad his tirade occurred immediately prior to turning into the hotel, where we encountered a guy reversing out of a bit you’re not allowed to reverse out of. I’m pretty confident this place can’t possibly be a virulently racist city but if it is, well, I’m glad I’m white and from Australia’s fatherland.
Only 7 hours in the future now. Think I’ll go out and see if I can’t find the town centre, something to eat, and some beer.

Hell’s bells, is it really 3 days since I left Perth already? I guess it is. So after arriving and being delivered to my hotel by the racist cabbie I took a look out of the window and thought, hell, ain’t a bad place to be, this. Started uploading a bunch of photos but it was going to take forever and it was getting dark, so with a flick of the switch the lights were out and I went to explore Perth by night.
Lots of riffraff hanging around in Perth town centre. I thought maybe I’d taken a turn off the main business drag one street too early because all of a sudden I thought I was in Croydon or Nuneaton. Crowds of pissed underage schoolkids, the odd surly looking problem child in a hoody skulking around on their lonesome, and benches of goths or hobos, united by their taste in cheap alcohol. Badlands indeed. I didn’t really feel in any danger, it just didn’t appear to be that nice a place. More importantly, my beer radar had failed me (actually it was more likely my map reading that went wrong) and I couldn’t spot any boozers.

Carried on being a night prowler and eventually I was back in business, in an area with a few bars in it. But they were all heaving and I was tired. So in the end I didn’t bother going in any. It was quite a trek back to the hotel anyway. Actually en route, far closer than the town centre, I had come across a pub, but it was called Fenian’s Bar and I checked the politics of that word with Mark – couldn’t remember if it meant I’d be lauded or bombed, turns out the latter is more likely. Not that I imagine for a moment it was a genuine Irish republican hangout, but still. Don’t want to go breaking the rules and getting kicked in the teeth.
So back at the hotel I sat at the bar and had a couple of drinks. Thought about having a whiskey on the rocks but beer was a better idea. I can recommend the Matilda Bay Redback wheat beer.

Thursday was my one full day in Perth. I’d discovered thanks to THE INTERNET that Bon Scott’s grave is in Fremantle, a suburb/neighbour (not sure of its proper status) of Perth, a short trip on the train or a longer trip on a boat. I figured a pilgrimage was required, so after getting some info from the concierge I took a trot along the river to the ferry terminal and got myself on the 0945 cruise.

Fantastic cruise it was. Perth’s skyline is really nice, the Swan river is gorgeous, and the weather was perfect. Learnt a few bits and bobs from the commentary – 1 in 3 families in the Perth area has a boat, the Swan river is about the size of Sydney harbour but only 4 metres deep for much of it so unusable for boating, Western Australia has a population of 2 million but is 3 times the size of Texas, or 100 times the size of Singapore (which has a population of 4 million!), and stuff. Best bit of the trip was when we were twice accompanied by dolphins swimming alongside us, playing in our wake, and just generally being visible. Couldn’t get any photos ‘cos I hadn’t managed to get a decent seat on the boat, having boarded late because I was busy trying to source some diet coke.

So, Fremantle. There’s a free bus there called the CAT (Central Area Transit? something like that) that you can ride on, and 4 of them in Perth town centre. Unfortunately all the maps I’d seen of Fremantle didn’t show the cemetery, so straight off the boat I walked towards the tourist information centre. Actually that’s not quite true – I spent the first 10 minutes or so walking the completely wrong direction, through a car park, waiting for a way to cross the train tracks to appear until I realised I’d screwed up. But when I did get my bearings the information centre was helpful and told me I had to get a bus “because it’s a 20-25 minute walk otherwise”.
Ignored their advice and turned the opposite direction outside, deciding to walk. Got as far as Fremantle prison where I considered taking a jail break, but figured, no, no diversions. Time to shake a leg and carry on.

Walked for another 5 minutes or so, the heat was too much and I was still in the town centre, so I waited for a bus. The 146 local bus, not a touristy thing at all, got me up to the cemetery. I took AGES walking around the graves, not having the faintest idea how to go about finding the prize. I tried to channel Bon into telling me where he was, but to no avail, and was just about to give up (in fact I’d SMSed Kevin to tell him I was doing so) when a posse of gardeners appeared, asked if I was looking for Bon Scott’s grave, and drove me to it in their little wagon.

Bon Scott’s grave is a small thing, no headstone, just a square plaque. It’s right next to a really big BON SCOTT MEMORIAL GATE and is fronted by a walkway containing stars with the word “Bon” on them. Good on me for missing it. I took my hat off, and a few pictures, uttered “Good on ya, Bon” and made my way.

OK. This is hard work. I’m not littering the rest of this entry with AC/DC song titles. Last two thoughts about the cemetery though: the space next to Bon is empty, which made me wonder if there’s a money making opportunity to be made in graveyards worldwide – “be buried next/near to [celeb X]!”; and it’s bad form to take the piss out of the dead, probably, but I’ve got a message for dear departed Doris: in the next life, don’t marry someone with a surname of Norris.
Went round the corner to the bus stop and waited. And waited. And waited. Every time a bus appeared on the horizon my hopes were raised (the only bus going along that road was the one I wanted), and every time they were dashed as a bus numbered 000, going to “out of service” thundered past. I went so far as to swear out loud as the third 000 approached, only for him to stop, let me on, and take me where I wanted to go. “I’m out of service mate, you can’t pay me. Where you going?” Sweet.

Back in Fremantle I wandered around the town centre. I really really liked it. Very few buildings more than 3 or 4 floors high, a bunch of shops and bars and restaurants, a really nice atmosphere, etc. Probably helped that the weather was so good, but I imagine it’s like that a lot anyway. I went for a half of stout in the Sail & Anchor, a pub with microbrewery that I’d seen advertised in one of the things to do pamphlets I got. After that I figured I’d go get that CAT to see what the whole place had to offer, and discovered that I’d pretty much already walked all the interesting bits.

The long trawl out of town (I swear it only goes along this particular road because the restaurants pay them to) gave me the chance to read some of the local rag I’d been carrying around with me, and hey presto there was a special supplement going on about the best places and things to eat and drink in the Perth area. Taking my lead from its recommendations I went to Clancy’s Fish Pub and had a Feral White beer. Very nice, both of ’em.

Time to bugger off. Got the train back, turned out it was a semi-express missing out the first 4 or so stops on the way. Fast, clean, on time, cheap, etc etc. Grand stuff. Now, I’m familiar with all the “please give this seat up to the elderly, or people with kids and shopping, or just generally people less able to stand” stuff, but I’m also familiar with how schoolkids act – in the UK, at least, I can’t imagine a sign saying “SCHOOL STUDENTS USING THE 50-CENT FARE SHOULD STAND FOR ADULTS” working in the slightest.

Back in Perth town centre I thought, right, the train station is on the southern border of Northbridge, the district with all the nightlife. I’ll go and have a look around there. Unfortunately what I thought and what I did were two different things, as I got hopelessly confused by the myriad exits from the station and ended up back in Nuneatonville. Bollocks. Took a walk back to one of the main roads I was familiar with via London Court, then back to the hotel. Knackered after a bunch of walking and all the heat and stuff, didn’t bother going out again. I had some food and drink in the bar downstairs but turned in early, especially because my alarm was set for 0500.